Tuning your Saab 9-3!
The Basics & Moving BINs
Here, I'm compiling information from various sources that I found useful in tuning my manual 2000 9-3 (OG) CV with a 2.0T B205L
- Manual transmissions 9000/NG900/OG9-3: 430nm
- Clutch: 900/9-3 Turbo: ~350nm
- Pistons: B2x5: 310 hp
- Crankshaft, connecting rods ("bannanaing"): generally not a concern
- Engine Block: B205: 600 hp+
- Stock Turbos: GT17 (205L)- 230hp 1.1 bar, TD04-HL15 (205R HOT)- 300 hp
Your VIN -> Engine Info
- YS3DD -> Saab 9-3S
- YS3DF -> Saab 9-3SE
8th letter of VIN:
- J = 2.0i, B204I
- B = 2.3i, B234I
- N = 2.0T, B204L
- D = 2.2TiD, D223L
- T = 2.0T, B204E
- P = 2.0T, B204R
- G = 2.3T, B235R
- H = 2.0T, B205L (my documentation is based on this one)
- K = 2.0T, B205R
- C = 2.0T, B205E
Jargon
- L means Low Output Turbo, whereas R represents the High Output Turbo (PGK, only on Viggen's and SEs). As far as I am aware, the engine internals are otherwise near identical.
- There are the S (base), SE (Select Edition), and Viggen (highest trim) models
- CV means convertible, A/M is auto/manual
- OG means 1998-2002, NG is 2003+ (old & new gen.)
- In T7Suite, mg/c is mg of air / combustion cycle. Generally, the stock GT17 comfortably can reach 1 bar/14psi/1200-1300 mg/c requested under load(needs fact checking)
- Stock 205L injector constant for me: 213 n-Heptane based g/min fuel (about 287 cc/min * 0.741 g/cc)
How to set up a P-Bus/CAN connection
For Saab 9-3s preceeding 2008 (I believe), the OBD port is missing the third one from the right on the top and sometimes the one below, which represent CAN+ and CAN Low.
The P-Bus, or powertrain bus, is connected to three main systems besides the ECU harness. If your Saab does not have TCS or ESP, you have to remove all of the front trim paneling to remove the instrument cluster (MIU). Once you do that, there will be a wiring harness with two connectors
On the first (left) connector, there are more wires and you must splice into the green and white wire, as depicted below, and run a 16 gauge twisted pair down into the footwell.
From there, you add connectors to your OBD port. I chose to add a 1 female to 3 male OBD splitter and just have male ISO pins plug in my wires for ease of removal.
What do I need to start flashing my ECU?
- Windows Laptop
- 12V 5A+ lead-acid battery charger ($30)
- OBDLink SX USB cable ($50)
- TrioncCANFlasher / T7Suite (free software)
I have everything! What to do now?
After you have all of your hardware, software, and drivers (not OBDWiz!), make a ECU backup!!!
- Plug in the battery charger* (reading is safe to do without one, but ALWAYS have for flashing), ensure a stable connection, and connect the OBDLink SX cable to your fitted OBD port.
- Plug the OBDLink cable into your laptop and start TrionicsCANFlasher
- Select settings, enable P-bus Only, select your cable's COM port and OBDLink SX, and set the baudrate to 2Mbit
- Put your keys in the ignition and switch it from LOCK -> ON -> OFF to ensure the ECU is on
- Click "Read ECU Info". This should initiate a K-line/KWP connection and list off your VIN, Immob code, etc. if all is well. I reccomend saving this information
- Click "Read ECU" and select a directory to save the BIN to; going over CAN is slow, but the file should either be 512KB or 1MB once you're done
unfinished from here on out, but writing this here in case needed in the meantime
Validating BINs
In T7 Suite, make sure that the Checksum is verified (otherwise, it'll be a faulty write) and that the VIN and immobilizer codes match your original (otherwise, the car won't start due to anti-theft)
Flashing!
Now that you have a BIN to flash that you validated through T7Suite, you can try flashing!
- Plug in the battery charger, ensure a stable connection, and connect the OBDLink SX cable to your fitted OBD port.
- Plug the OBDLink cable into your laptop and start TrionicsCANFlasher
- Select settings, enable P-bus Only, select your cable's COM port and OBDLink SX, and set the baudrate to 2Mbit
- Put your keys in the ignition and switch it from LOCK -> ON -> OFF to ensure the ECU is on
- Click "Read ECU Info". This should initiate a K-line/KWP connection and list off your VIN, Immob code, etc. if all is well
- Click "Flash ECU" and select your binary; it should give directions (turn key ON, then LOCK [Leave it in there until safely finished or else it may fail]) and begin to flash and write off sets of hex codes
IF IT FAILS, DO NOT TURN OFF YOUR CAR, AS THAT MAY BRICK YOUR ECU AND REQUIRES A BDM CONNECTION TO FIX. Instead, unplug and plug back in the cable and attempt again.
- Once the flash finishes (avg. 26 minutes for me), don't start the car yet. Unplug your cable, take out the key, and pop the hood
- Unplug the charger and the negative terminal of the battery and wait 10 seconds in order to clear ECU flash codes. Plug back in (many guides recommend just removing fuse 17 for the ECU, but that doesn't work for me)
- Put key into ignition. Move it to ON for 10-30s in order to let it self-check, then back to lock. Now, you can safely start your car!
Issues I've Had and Solutions
- Unable to start KWP Connection -> Adding P-bus CAN line to OBD and verifying FTDI232 drivers
- Unable to start after flashing even though it cranks, no fuel, reading ECU BFuelCal maps by T7Suite reads empty cells -> Unplug battery
- OBDLink SX cable not recognized -> remove OBDWiz; get https://ftdichip.com/drivers/d2xx-drivers/
Resources
this page is informational--any reccomendations are without profit. Take caution with any actions, as you are the sole one responsible. Feel free to contact me as per my contact on sciencesid.dev